Taxonomy and identification
The supplied name is Trichogaster trichopterus, commonly called blue gourami or three-spot gourami. Current aquarium and taxonomic references may place this species in the genus Trichopodus, as Trichopodus trichopterus. It belongs to the family Osphronemidae and order Anabantiformes. The species has an elongated, laterally compressed body, long thread-like pelvic fins, and a labyrinth organ that allows it to use atmospheric oxygen. The blue form commonly shows a blue to blue-gray body with darker markings; color intensity changes with mood, age, and water conditions.
Distribution and natural habitat
This species is native to mainland and island Southeast Asia, including slow-moving freshwater habitats in areas associated with Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia. It occurs in vegetated ponds, marshes, swamps, canals, rice-field habitats and sluggish streams. Aquarium populations and introduced populations may occur beyond the native range, so a captive fish should not be released.
Behavior and temperament
Blue gouramis usually occupy the middle and upper levels and frequently visit the surface to breathe. They are not schooling fish, although juveniles may tolerate one another. Adults can be territorial, with males commonly more aggressive toward other males and sometimes toward females or slow, long-finned tank mates. Dense planting, wood, floating cover and broken lines of sight reduce conflict. A pair may work in a large, structured aquarium, but the female must have refuge if the male becomes persistent.
Aquarium and tank size
For a pair, use at least 100-120 litres, with a longer aquarium preferred over a tall, narrow one. Larger volumes are safer for community arrangements or multiple gouramis. Use a secure lid because gouramis jump and need warm, humid air above the water for normal labyrinth-organ function. Provide open swimming space, sturdy plants, floating plants, shaded areas and gentle circulation. Avoid strong surface turbulence, which can make surface breathing and bubble-nest construction more difficult.
Water parameters
Maintain stable, clean, well-oxygenated water at 24-30 °C and pH 6.0-8.0. A moderate hardness range is generally tolerated, but stability is more important than chasing a particular number. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero, with nitrate kept low through regular partial water changes and sensible stocking. Acclimate new fish gradually and avoid abrupt temperature or chemistry changes.
Diet
Blue gouramis are omnivorous. Offer a quality small floating or slow-sinking staple pellet or flake, supplemented with frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia and mosquito larvae. Small portions once or twice daily are preferable to overfeeding. Occasional suitable vegetable matter or algae-containing foods can add variety, but uneaten food should be removed promptly.
Compatibility
Choose peaceful to moderately assertive tank mates of similar size that prefer warm, calm community conditions. Suitable examples may include robust rasboras, larger peaceful tetras, peaceful barbs, livebearers and bottom-dwelling catfish, provided the individual combination is monitored. Avoid fin-nippers, very boisterous fish, tiny species that may be intimidated, and other gouramis unless the aquarium is large and carefully arranged. Do not house them with aggressive cichlids or fish that compete intensely at the surface.
Sexing and breeding
Mature males generally develop a longer, more pointed dorsal fin, while females usually have a shorter, rounder dorsal fin and a fuller body when carrying eggs. Individual variation makes sexing immature fish unreliable. For breeding, use a separate, calm, planted aquarium with floating material, gentle filtration and a slightly warmer temperature within the normal range. The male builds a bubble nest at the surface, courts the female and gathers fertilized eggs into the nest. Remove the female after spawning if she is harassed. The male may guard and tend the nest, but he should be removed after the fry become free-swimming to prevent predation. Newly free-swimming fry require very small foods, such as infusoria or a suitable first fry food, followed by larger foods as they grow.
Health and routine care
Purchase active fish with intact fins, clear eyes and normal breathing, and quarantine new arrivals when possible. Common problems include stress, poor water quality, bacterial or parasitic disease, and damage from fin-nipping tank mates. Maintain biological filtration, perform regular partial water changes, keep the surface accessible, and observe appetite and behavior daily. Because this species can breathe air, surface access must never be blocked by a sealed internal obstruction or excessive floating cover.
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